Visiting Rome’s Trastevere district
Nestling on the right bank of the Tiber, Rome’s Trastevere district is one of the most endearing and authentic in the Eternal City. Its name, which literally means “beyond the Tiber” in Latin(Trans Tiberim), sums up the identity of this very special area, which for a long time remained on the fringes of the imperial heart of Rome. Today, its cobbled streets, ochre and gold facades, lively little squares and fragrant trattorias make it one of the most popular districts for travellers looking for a different way of visiting Rome, away from the main tourist arteries.
A visit to the Trastevere district is like immersing yourself in the warmth of working-class Rome, where people sit on terraces in the evening, children play in the piazzas, morning markets are bustling with life and musicians improvise on the corner of an alleyway. With its exceptional religious heritage, Renaissance masterpieces, secret gardens and authentic Roman cuisine, Trastevere has everything you could wish for. This comprehensive guide will take you on a tour of everything this legendary district has to offer.
Also read the Rome guide:
- St Peter’s Square in Rome: visit the Vatican’s most famous square!
- The Trevi Fountain in Rome, everything you need to know to discover and see it!
- Rome’s 14 must-see museums
- What to eat in Rome Our selection of 14 Roman specialities
- Free activities and visits in Rome: our must-see selection
- Visiting the Vatican in Rome
- Visit Hadrian’s Villa near Rome
- The best things to do in and around Rome
- The best hotels in Rome
1. The history of the Trastevere district: Rome beyond the Tiber
Crossing the Tiber into Trastevere means crossing a symbolic border that separates imperial Rome from popular Rome. From ancient times, this territory on the right bank of the river did not officially belong to the city of Rome. It was during the reign of Augustus, between 31 BC and 14 AD, that Trastevere was officially incorporated into the city as the 14th region. The district was home to sailors, fishermen, merchants and immigrants from all over the Mediterranean basin – including a large Jewish community, one of the oldest in the West, and many Orientals from Syria and Egypt.
It was precisely in this cosmopolitan and popular area that Christianity took root very early on in Rome. Archaeological digs attest to the presence of Christian places of worship in the district as early as the 3rd century, making it one of the cradles of the Christian faith in the capital. In the Middle Ages, Trastevere established itself as an autonomous district, proud of its traditions, with its own craftsmen, guilds and distinct popular culture. Its inhabitants, the trasteverini, are renowned for their wholehearted character and their visceral attachment to their neighbourhood – a reputation that has not entirely disappeared today. If you’re planning your trip, don’t miss the Navaway audio tour of Rome: it will help you understand how Trastevere fits in with the other major areas of the Eternal City.
2. Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, the lively heart of the district
Any visit to the Trastevere district naturally begins in Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, the district’s main square and one of the liveliest places in Rome at any time of day. Surrounded by terraced cafés, restaurants and small shops, this shady piazza is a veritable open-air salon where Romans and travellers mingle with disconcerting ease.
At its centre is a Roman fountain, considered to be one of the oldest in Rome. It was first mentioned in the 8th century, although its current form is the result of successive restorations, notably by Bernini in 1659 and Carlo Fontana in 1692. Around the fountain, in the morning, the district gently awakens: the inhabitants have their coffee, the vendors set up their stalls, and the calm atmosphere that reigns contrasts with the bustle of the rest of Rome. In the evening, this is where strolling musicians, groups of friends and tourists converge, transforming the piazza into a permanent, spontaneous stage. Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere is also the ideal starting point for exploring the surrounding streets and discovering the best of Rome on foot with the Navaway tour.
3. The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere, a jewel of Roman medieval art
Dominating the square with its imposing gold-lit façade, the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere is an absolute must-see in the district. This building is considered to be one of the very first officially established places of Christian worship in Rome. According to tradition, it was here that a spring of oil miraculously gushed forth at the very moment of Jesus’ birth – which is said to have led to the construction of the first oratory as early as the 3rd century. The basilica as we know it today dates back to the 12th century, under the pontificate of Innocent II.
The first thing that strikes you is the splendour of its Byzantine mosaics: the façade itself is adorned with a 12th-century mosaic depicting the Virgin Mary and ten holy women carrying lamps. Inside, the apse is entirely covered with golden mosaics of rare beauty, including the famous panels attributed to Pietro Cavallini (13th century), which depict six scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary with a realism that was a precursor of the Renaissance. The cosmatesque mosaic floor, the ancient granite columns and the nave bathed in golden light give the whole a rare atmosphere of contemplation and wonder. Admission is free, and a visit is a must for anyone interested in early Christian and medieval Roman art.
Download the audio tour to discover Rome on foot and on your own
To explore Trastevere and its treasures beyond this guide, the Navaway app offers a complete audioguided tour of Rome comprising 23 commented stages, including a stop at the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere. Interactive navigation, historical commentary and tasty anecdotes: let yourself be guided through the streets of Rome at your own pace, without a human guide, directly from your smartphone. It’s the perfect way to prepare for or extend your visit to the area.
4. Villa Farnesina, a Renaissance masterpiece in Trastevere
Just a stone’s throw from the Basilica, up Via della Lungara, lies one of Rome’s little-known gems: Villa Farnesina (Via della Lungara 230, 00165 Rome). This Renaissance villa, built between 1508 and 1511 forAgostino Chigi, one of the wealthiest Sienese bankers of his time, is a remarkable example of High Renaissance architecture and painted decoration. Its sober, elegant architecture, the work of Baldassarre Peruzzi, contrasts with the profusion of decoration inside.
It is inside that the true magic of Villa Farnesina is revealed. The Loggia of Galatea, on the ground floor, houses a fresco by Raphael depicting the Triumph of Galatea, considered to be one of his most accomplished works. The Loggia of Cupid and Psyche, whose vault is entirely covered with frescoes commissioned from Raphael and partly executed by his pupils, resembles a pergola invaded by the gods of mythology. Upstairs, the Hall of Perspectives, painted in trompe-l’oeil by Peruzzi, offers a striking visual spectacle. A visit to Villa Farnesina is a must for lovers of Renaissance art, and can easily be combined with a visit to Rome’s other must-see museums.
5. Palazzo Corsini and its National Gallery of Ancient Art
Just opposite Villa Farnesina, on the same Via della Lungara, stands the imposing Palazzo Corsini (Via della Lungara 10, 00165 Rome). This late Baroque palace, built between 1730 and 1740 for the Corsini family – from whom Pope Clement XII descended – is now home to one of the two components of the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica. It has the distinction of being the only museum in Rome to have retained its original eighteenth-century layout.
The collections at Palazzo Corsini include several hundred paintings from the 14th to the 18th century, with a fine representation of Flemish art and the Roman Baroque school. Works by Guido Reni, Nicolas Poussin, Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, Fra Angelico and Rubens can be admired in rooms with elegantly ornamented ceilings. The museum’s modest size compared with the behemoths of the Capitol or the Vatican makes it a relaxing and intimate visit, appreciated by art lovers who shun large crowds. Palazzo Corsini also adjoins Rome’s splendid botanical gardens, making it possible to combine two visits in the same walk.
6. L’orto Botanico di Roma, a haven of greenery in the heart of Trastevere
Backing onto the Janiculum hill and adjoining Palazzo Corsini, the Orto Botanico di Roma (Largo Cristina di Svezia 24, 00165 Rome) is one of Italy’s finest botanical gardens. Officially founded in the nineteenth century on land belonging to Queen Christine of Sweden – whose palace, now Palazzo Corsini, is next door – it unfurls its twelve hectares of lush vegetation on the slopes of the Gianicolo.
A visit to this garden is a breath of fresh air in a city as mineral as Rome. You’ll discover an impressive bamboo forest, a serene Japanese garden, a fragrant rose garden, an orange grove, and themed sections dedicated to medicinal plants or rare essences. Families will particularly enjoy the shady paths and cascading fountains. In summer, the botanical garden is a welcome oasis of coolness when visiting the Trastevere district. Admission is charged, but the prices are very reasonable.
7. The Janiculum hill, a unique panorama of the Eternal City
Dominating Trastevere from its heights, the Janiculum (or Gianicolo) hill offers one of the most spectacular panoramas in the whole of Rome. Although it is not one of the city’s seven historic hills, the Janiculum is the highest hill visible from the centre of Rome, and its terraces allow you to take in the whole of the Eternal City in a single view, from the Pantheon to St Peter’s Basilica and the Colosseum. Watching the sun set from the terraces of the Janiculum is an unforgettable experience, not to be missed.
On the way up to the summit, you pass the Acqua Paola fountain (Via Garibaldi, 00153 Rome), nicknamed er Fontanone (the “great fountain”) by the Romans. Built in 1612 by the architect Giovanni Fontana on the orders of Pope Paul V, this monumental Baroque-style fountain marks the terminus of the restored Trajan aqueduct. Its facade of five white marble arches, inspired by a triumphal arch, is strikingly majestic. Higher up, at the top of the hill, a majestic equestrian statue of Garibaldi overlooks the city – a powerful symbol of the Italian Risorgimento. A cannon is fired every day at noon from the Janiculum to remind the people of Rome of the time, a tradition that dates back to 1847.
The Navaway audioguide tour also takes in the area around this emblematic district: let us guide you through authentic Rome so that you don’t miss any of the hidden treasures on the right bank of the Tiber.
8. Sisto Bridge and Piazza Trilussa, gateway to Trastevere
One of the most pleasant ways to reach Trastevere from Rome’s historic centre is to cross the Ponte Sisto, the elegant pedestrian bridge spanning the Tiber. Rebuilt in the 15th century on the orders of Pope Sixtus IV (hence its name), it replaced an ancient bridge that was probably swept away by a flood of the Tiber in 791. Its sober, robust stone silhouette, its four arches and its oculi pierced to allow flood waters to pass – a remarkable technical innovation for its time – make it one of the most charming bridges in Rome.
Cross the Ponte Sisto on the Trastevere side and you come to Piazza Trilussa (Piazza Trilussa, 00153 Rome), the hub of the district and a popular meeting place for Romans at aperitif time. The square takes its name from the pseudonym of the Roman dialect poet Carlo Alberto Salustri, whose statue is enthroned in the centre. Its baroque fountain, with water flowing from lion masks, is an almost obligatory photo stop. From late afternoon onwards, the fountain’s stairs and the surrounding steps are packed with young Romans meeting for spritz time. The atmosphere is relaxed and friendly, and far removed from the mass tourism that reigns in other parts of the city.
9. The Museum of Rome in Trastevere, an insight into popular Roman life
Housed in the former seventeenth-century Carmelite convent in the Piazza di Sant’Egidio (Piazza di Sant’Egidio 1B, 00153 Rome), the Museo di Roma in Trastevere is an intimate and engaging museum, often overlooked by conventional tourist guides but nevertheless invaluable for anyone wanting to understand the soul of the district. Founded in 1977 after the restoration of the convent, it was initially dedicated to Roman folklore and popular traditions.
Today, the Museum of Rome in Trastevere offers permanent and temporary exhibitions focusing on everyday Roman life in the 18th and 19th centuries: watercolours depicting popular costumes and customs, reconstructions of scenes from daily life, old photographs and everyday objects. The piazza Sant’Egidio is one of the quietest and most photogenic squares in Trastevere, ideal for a break from the hustle and bustle. There is a small art bookshop on the ground floor of the museum.
10. Get lost in the narrow streets of Trastevere, the real magic of the district
Aside from its monuments, it is the aimless wandering through the narrow streets of Trastevere that is the district’s most memorable experience. The network of cobbled alleyways, flower-filled courtyards, vaulted passageways and little secret squares is a labyrinth that you’ll enjoy trying not to decipher too quickly. Every corner holds a surprise: an ivy-covered façade, a Madonna in her niche lit by a candle, a craftsman’s workshop opening onto the street, a cat asleep on a low tufa wall.
One of the places not to be missed on this stroll is the Porta di Settimiana: this vestige of the walls built by the Emperor Aurelian in the 3rd century symbolically marks the entrance to Trastevere from the Via della Lungara. Further south, Piazza Mastai is a lesser-known square, named after Pope Pius IX (Giovanni Mastai), who had the papal tobacco factory built here in 1860. These places are some of the stops on the Navaway audio tour of Rome, which takes you to the most unusual corners of the city. Take the time to stop off at the small craft shops, art galleries and independent bookshops that line the alleyways: they are an integral part of Trastevere’s special charm.
11. Gastronomy in Trastevere: eating like a Roman
Along with Testaccio, Trastevere is one of the areas of Rome where popular Roman cuisine is best represented. Its alleyways are full of trattorias andosterias serving generous, unsophisticated cuisine with character, faithful to recipes handed down from generation to generation. To get into the mood, start with the antipasti: supplì al telefono (fried rice croquettes with stringy mozzarella), carciofi alla romana (artichokes simmered in olive oil, garlic and mint) or fiori di zucca fritti (fried stuffed courgette flowers). To find out more about the specialities you absolutely must try, see our article What to eat in Rome? Our selection of 14 Roman specialities.
In terms of main courses, the must-tries are rigatoni alla carbonara, bucatini all’amatriciana, cacio e pepe and coda alla vaccinara (braised oxtail with tomato sauce and herbs). Il Tonnarello (Via della Paglia 1-3, 00153 Rome) is one of the most famous trattorias in the area, known for its generous portions and authentic atmosphere. L’Antica Pesa (Via Garibaldi 18, 00153 Rome), founded in 1922, offers refined Roman cuisine in an elegant historic setting. For a sweet break, the bignè and maritozzi of Trastevere can be enjoyed on the go, standing in front of a bar, like a true Roman.
12. Trastevere by night: Rome’s most festive district
As the sun begins to set over the rooftops of Rome, Trastevere undergoes a metamorphosis. The district, already charming by day, reveals a warm, festive soul that makes it one of the liveliest places in the Italian capital after dark. The ochre facades are lit up by the subdued lights of the restaurants and bars, the terraces fill up, and the music from the bars blares out into the cobbled streets.
The Trastevere district attracts young Romans and foreign travellers alike to its intimate bars and clubs. The Via del Moro, Via della Scala and the alleys adjacent to Piazza Trilussa are where most of the district’s nightlife is concentrated. Unlike the nightclubs in the centre, the atmosphere here is one of convivial wine bars, concert restaurants where you can dine under brick vaults, and small improvised stages where jazz or folk musicians set up on the corner of a square. To make the most of your evening in the district after a great day out, check out our selection of the best things to do in and around Rome.
13. Practical tips for visiting the Trastevere district
How do I get to Trastevere?
Trastevere can be reached from Rome’s historic centre on foot, by bike or by public transport. From the Pantheon or Piazza Navona, it takes approximately 20-25 minutes on foot. By tram, lines 8 and H serve the district directly. From Termini station, the 8 bus is the most convenient option. The district is also easily accessible from the Vatican by walking along the Tiber.
When is the best time to visit Trastevere?
Trastevere is best visited in the morning to enjoy the calm of the alleyways before the tourist rush, or in the late afternoon for the aperitif atmosphere and the golden light that adorns its façades. At night, the district reveals its festive life. Avoid the height of summer between 12pm and 4pm, when the heat and crowds are at their peak. If you’re planning a multi-day visit to Rome, check out our guide to free activities and visits in Rome to make the most of your stay.
Where can I park to visit Trastevere?
The Trastevere district is located in Rome’s ZTL (Limited Traffic Zone), which means that access by car is very restricted for non-residents. You are strongly advised to park outside the district – the Gianicolo car park (Via Urbano VIII 16/C) is a good option – and to reach the district on foot or by public transport.
How long does it take to visit Trastevere?
Half a day is enough for a quick visit covering the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere, the main piazza and a few narrow streets. For a complete tour including the Villa Farnesina, Palazzo Corsini, the Botanical Gardens and a climb up the Janiculum, allow a full day. Coupled with an evening out in the district’s restaurants and bars, Trastevere can easily take up a day and a half of your stay in Rome.
In conclusion, a visit to the Trastevere district of Rome is a unique experience that combines art, a thousand years of history, popular gastronomy and the Italian way of life in a setting of gilded alleyways and lively squares. Whether you’re a lover of medieval art, an epicurean in search of Rome’s best trattorias or simply a lover of authentic atmospheres, Trastevere will appeal to you. To extend the adventure and discover Rome in all its depth, don’t hesitate to use the Navaway audioguided tour to visit Rome on foot and on your own: 23 commented stops for a complete immersion in the immortal city, including several devoted to the very heart of Trastevere.
FAQ – Visiting Rome’s Trastevere district
Is the Trastevere district dangerous?
No, Trastevere is safe and very busy, even at night. As in any busy tourist district, however, you should beware of pickpockets in the busy areas (around piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere and piazza Trilussa in particular) and keep your belongings in sight. All in all, this is one of Rome’s best areas for an evening stroll.
How far is Trastevere from Rome’s other tourist attractions?
No, Trastevere is well located for Rome’s main attractions. It’s about 20-25 minutes’ walk from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, 30 minutes from the Colosseum, and a 15-minute walk along the Tiber from the Vatican. Many tourists combine a visit to Trastevere with one to the Vatican in the same day.
Is there a market in Trastevere?
Yes, the market in Piazza San Cosimato is held from Monday to Saturday mornings and offers local fruit, vegetables, cheeses and cured meats in a very Roman atmosphere. It’s a great place for travellers to stop and soak up the daily life of the area. A second-hand market is also held on Sunday mornings in the same square.
Is the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere open every day?
Yes, the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere is generally open every day from 7.30am to 9pm, with the possibility of closing in the middle of the day during religious services. Admission is free. It is advisable to visit early in the morning or early in the evening to avoid the crowds and take full advantage of the luminous atmosphere of its golden mosaics.
Can you visit Trastevere with children?
Absolutely! Trastevere is a very family-friendly district, with its open squares, gardens (especially the botanical garden), gelateria and welcoming restaurants. However, the cobbled streets can be a bit tricky for pushchairs. The Janiculum, with its panoramic views and traditional merry-go-rounds in summer, is particularly popular with families with young children. The district offers a wide range of experiences for all generations.
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