The Rood Screen of the Church of La Madeleine

Tucked a little tightly among more modern buildings, this is the Church of La Madeleine—the oldest church in Troyes. First mentioned in 1157, it was largely rebuilt in the early 13th century, in the brand-new Gothic style that had just started to appear. Though the real treasure lies inside—so if the door’s open, do step in! What you absolutely must see is the church’s rood screen. Now, if you’re not an expert in church architecture, no worries. A rood screen is a kind of stone or wooden partition, often beautifully carved, that separates the choir from the nave. Most of them have disappeared over time, so the one here is not only rare but is also considered one of the most beautiful examples in France. At the start of the 1500s, the church decided it was time to replace its old wooden screen. At the same time, over at the cathedral, plans were underway to redesign the main portal. A sculptor named Jean Gailde applied for the cathedral project but didn’t get the job. Instead, he was hired to design the new rood screen for La Madeleine. Determined to prove the cathedral wrong, he poured his heart into the work—and the result is breathtaking. Intricate stone lacework, full of detail and elegance. So impressive, in fact, that Gailde was buried beneath it. Legend has it that people were worried the screen might collapse, but Jean was so confident in his craftsmanship, he insisted on being laid to rest right beneath it, confident that he’d never be disturbed, and so far, he’s been right. Look closely at the base—you’ll find his epitaph. The whole screen was once brightly painted, just like the church walls, before they were whitewashed in the 18th century. Try to imagine how vivid and colorful it must have been at its unveiling—shining as brightly as the stained glass windows in the choir.

And those windows are something else. They date from the early 16th century and belong to what’s known as the Troyes school of stained glass. What makes them special? Their dazzling colors, fine craftsmanship, and bold, expressive designs. Keep an eye out for the Tree of Jesse, scenes from Genesis, and the story of Saint Eligius—each one a miniature masterpiece.When you step back outside, take a moment to visit the Garden of the Innocents just next to the church. This quiet green space only opened to the public in 2008. It used to be the church’s cemetery—a hidden, peaceful place that’s now a garden for all to enjoy.