Cathédrale Saint-Pierre et Saint-Paul

You’re now standing in front of the Cathedral of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, instantly recognisable by its single left-hand tower. The origins of Christianity in Troyes go back a long way, though legend and history tend to blur together. It’s said that Savinien of Sens sent Saint Potentin here to establish a place of worship. They supposedly lived in the 3rd century, but let’s be honest—it’s hard to fact-check. What we do know is that 19th-century excavations uncovered a hypocaust heating system beneath the cathedral, proving there was a Gallo-Roman presence on the site. Whether it was a villa or a church remains unclear. Later, it’s believed that Bishop Saint Loup built the first cathedral here in the 5th century. That one was destroyed during the Norman invasions in the late 9th century. But Troyes didn’t give up. A new cathedral was built a century later—only to be burned down in the 12th century. Frustrating, right? Then came the 13th century, with technical advances and a surge in religious fervour. The people of Troyes set out to build the biggest and most beautiful cathedral in France. It would take time—four centuries, to be exact. Yes, the Hundred Years’ War didn’t help, but still—four hundred years! Throughout it all, the architects tried to keep a consistent style, and if you know what to look for, you can spot the different phases of Gothic architecture. The Saint Peter tower was completed in the 17th century, but Saint Paul’s was never built, giving the cathedral its unique, slightly off-kilter look—which honestly adds to its charm. Despite that, this is one of the most remarkable cathedrals in France, both for its elegance and the richness of its interior. The sculptures, paintings, tapestries, and especially the stained glass—classified as national treasures—make it well worth a visit. This is also where the infamous “Shameful Treaty of Troyes” was signed, promising the French crown to the English king. It’s also from the top of the Saint Peter tower that a pioneer of flight, Denis Bolori, launched himself in 1536. A clockmaker from Troyes, he built mechanical wings and leapt from the tower with full confidence in his invention. He managed to glide about a kilometre before crashing in the Froissy meadow. He may not have been the first to fly, but he just might have been the first victim of an air crash.