Napoleon’s Chalets (Part 1)

Visitors to Vichy are often surprised to see these adorable cottages on the shores of the Allier Lake. What’s even more surprising is that they were built as residences for Napoleon III and his court. Of course, we’re not talking about ordinary people like you and me, but rather the second Emperor of France and his entourage. I know – it’s probably hard to imagine them in such cozy dwellings, but the reality is that the powerful Napoleon III was also a sick man, who suffered from painful kidney stones. His doctors thus recommended a three-week spa treatment in Vichy, which at the time looked more like a big village. The emperor liked it there and set out to turn Vichy into France’s leading spa town, rivaling German resorts. So he launched a major urban planning project and built a train station, a casino-theater and parks along the Allier river. Soon, Vichy was a bustling tourist destination, popular with both French and foreign visitors. The emperor and his entire court returned to Vichy every year for spa treatments, and so he had these spacious chalets built for their personal use. At number 101, there’s the Chalet des Roses. It was built in 1863 by architect Lefaure for Napoleon III’s Minister of Finance. Modest as he was, the minister asked that his residence match the ones built for the emperor right next door. The Chalet des roses owes its name to its great collection of over 50 species of roses. It also boasted luxurious porcelain flushing toilets brought all the way from England. This sumptuous residence hosted many high-profile guests like the Grand Duchess Maria of Russia, sister of the Tsar, and Ismaël Pasha, Viceroy of Egypt. At number 105, you’ll find the chalet “Eugénie”, built in 1864. This is where Napoleon III spent most of his childhood. Right above the door, you’ll see the letter ‘E’ with the imperial crown on top; it marked the building as the home of Empress Eugénie de Montijo, the emperor’s wife. But despite its elegant design and numerous reception rooms and bedrooms with beautiful park views, the chalet left the Empress cold. And why you might ask? Deeply hurt by her husband’s unfaithfulness during his stays in Vichy, Eugénie de Montijo vowed never to return.