The Capitole

You’re in the largest square in Toulouse, where some of the biggest events in all of France take place! It was cleared of the buildings formerly occupying it when the present-day capitole façade was built in the middle of the 18th century. Notice how there are 8 columns, one for each of the 8 capitouls who ruled the city. You can see their coats of arms in the windows. In the center of the square, there’s a large Occitan cross, which was drawn in 1993. At each end you can see the Zodiac signs, the months of the year, the 12 hours of the day and the 4 cardinal points. Today, the building houses the town hall, a theater and state rooms. It was originally built in 1190 as a government building for the Capitouls. But who are these famous Capitouls we so often hear about in Toulouse? In the 11th and 12th centuries, the city was run by the Catholic Church and the Counts of Toulouse, who had somehow managed to free themselves from the power of the crown. Toulouse had the right of defense and justice, and possessed a vast surrounding territory. A group of bourgeois managed to secure from the Counts the right to administer the city. Their number varied, eventually settling at 8, each managing a capitoulat, a kind of district ahead of its time. They had many benefits in kind and otherwise, but the most important was automatic ennoblement for those who weren’t already nobles. In short, when Toulouse became part of the kingdom of France, their rights and privileges were somewhat called into question, but they continued to exist until the French Revolution. That’s over 600 years of existence! They even tried to claim that they dated back to antiquity, so as to have more legitimacy than the kings of France! That’s also why the town hall was called Capitole, as a way of reconnecting with ancient, however nonexistent, roots. But they were right to insist, for in the 18th century Louis the 16th wrote: “The so-called capitouls of Toulouse acquire by virtue of their office, for themselves and their descendants, the right of nobility. They have enjoyed this right since time immemorial, even before the union of the county of Toulouse with the Crown, and this nobility is so ancient that its origins are unknown”. Apparently, Toulouse has little to complain about having been managed by the Capitouls for 6 centuries, and historians agree that it has been wisely governed. Today, it boasts many legacies of this past, starting with the magnificent Capitole! But your visit to the Capitole doesn’t end there. Don’t miss out on a tour of its interior! Admission is free, and allows you to explore some absolutely fantastic spaces, including the splendid Salle des Illustres, aka the Hall of the Illustrious, decorated from floor to ceiling with monumental paintings of the city’s major historical figures. You’ll also have access to the Salon Rouge, the Red Room, richly adorned with frescoes, tapestries and finely crafted furniture, and the Salle Paul Gervais, the Paul Gervais Hall, with its refined decor and works of art. You can also stop by the Capitole Theater, which can be found on the right-hand side of the building. It’s open to the public every day from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. I’ll leave you to explore at your own pace before we continue our tour.