Ushijima Sanctuary

You’re now standing before the entrance leading to Ushijima Shrine, a Shinto sanctuary believed to have been built in the 9th century. It’s one of the few historic monuments in Tokyo that has survived both the devastating 1923 earthquake and the bombings of World War II destroying a large part of the city. At the entrance, you’ll spot a large arch called a torii, the traditional gate just before the sanctuary. However, this peculiar one forms in fact a mitsutorii, featuring a central torii that connects two others on either side.

Legend says this shrine owes its existence to the Buddhist priest Ennin, who had traveled to Tokyo to see the statue of Kannon, housed in the Senso-ji Temple. While walking through this very park where you’re standing now, he encountered a mysterious man who revealed himself to be the Shinto god of storms. This divine figure instructed him to build a shrine right here, on this side of the Sumida River, to protect all who lived in the area. And just like that, the shrine was built in 860. Needless to say, it’s dedicated to Susanoo, the storm god, as well as Amenohohi, the sun goddess’s son, and a prince of imperial descent who was deified a century later. The shrine was constructed using hinoki, Japanese cypress that was known for its resilience and elegance. As you walk around the structure, you may notice several statues of cows—quite unusual for a shrine, as you typically find lion guardians instead. These bovine figures are tied to the sanctuary’s name, Ushijima, meaning “Cow Island” and hinting that this area may have once served to keep the inhabitants’ cows. Local legend has it that touching one of these cow statues could help you overcome your troubles. So, what are you waiting for? Also, every five years, in September, the shrine hosts a big festival —the Ushijima Jinja Taisai—where people parade in traditional attire, and two black bulls pull a lavishly decorated carriage through the crowds, marvelling thousands of participants. A unique spot where history, culture, and spirituality intertwine.