Rio Mapocho

The Pio Nono Bridge takes you across the Mapocho River and into the vibrant Bellavista neighborhood. Behind you is Baquedano Square—though most locals still call it by its old name, Plaza Italia. It’s more than just a traffic hub; it’s widely seen as the symbolic dividing line between Santiago’s wealthier neighbourhoods and its working-class districts—the so-called “upper” and “lower” city. Over the years, this square has become Santiago’s go-to gathering place, whether it’s to celebrate a football victory or to protest for social change. It was the epicenter of the student uprisings and the massive demonstrations of 2019. Beneath your feet flows the Mapocho River, which crosses the entire Santiago metropolitan area. It starts high up in the Andes and eventually joins the Maipo River before flowing into the Pacific near Valparaíso. Long before the arrival of the Spanish, this land was part of the Inca Empire, and the Incas of the Collasuyo region—the empire’s southernmost stretch—built an impressive network of irrigation canals using the Mapocho’s waters. Some of those ancient canals are still in use today, like the Canal Pirámide in the district of Vitacura. Just ahead of you on the right, the large, imposing building is the University of Chile’s Law School. Seventeen Chilean presidents have studied there, along with countless politicians, judges, senators, historians, and leading thinkers. Now it’s time to cross the bridge and explore the other side of Santiago.