Travessa do Comércio – Trade Lane

You’re now walking down the Travessa do Comércio, meaning Trade Lane! This little cobbled street takes you back in time to colonial Rio, with its old stone houses lining the narrow sidewalks. Look up ahead – there’s the Arco do Teles, an archway dating back to the 1740s. It was around this time that the Chamber of Governors, later to become the Imperial Palace, was built. With this, the whole neighborhood boomed; Judge Antonio Telles thus saw an opportunity and bought land to build a series of houses to rent out to merchants. But during construction, the engineer in charge met with a problem: his buildings blocked the way to the fish market lane (today’s trade lane). As he wasn’t one for detours, he decided to build an arch right through one of the buildings, which was to become the Senate Chamber. Problem solved! The area quickly became a bustling hub for Rio’s elite society. But in 1790, a fire destroyed most of the houses, sparing only the Arco de Teles, now a relic of this bygone golden era. The wealthy residents soon moved to other neighborhoods, and the area was populated by people on the fringes of society. Beggars, bandits, prostitutes and the alleged witch Barbara dos Prazeres, a former prostitute. She was rumored to have used black magic and children’s blood to stay young. Things changed again in 1808 with the arrival of the Portuguese royal family. The neighborhood’s property values soared. By the early 20th century, the Travessa do Comércio became a hub for Portuguese immigrants, and even the famous singer Carmen Miranda lived here as a child at number 13! Today, the Travessa do Comércio and the surrounding streets are well known for their lively nightlife, with tons of cozy bars and renowned restaurants.