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Metropolitan Cathedral

20 cathedrale metropolitaine poi grand

This point of interest is available as audio on the tour: Visit Quito, Lost in the Andes

La Plaza Grande, also known as Independence Square, is surrounded by some of the most important buildings in Quito. That’s true for nearly every main square in South America, often called Plaza de Armas, because this is where the Spanish Crown concentrated its key institutions of power. So it’s no surprise that you’ll find the Metropolitan Cathedral here, one of the oldest cathedrals on the entire continent. Not long after Quito was founded, the southern edge of what would become the Plaza Grande was set aside for the construction of a church. A temporary building made of mud and straw went up first, and then, in 1535, work began on the church we see today. Ten years later, with the creation of the Bishopric of Quito, the church was officially elevated to cathedral status. Over the centuries, it’s been damaged and rebuilt several times:  first after the eruption of the Pichincha volcano, then again following the 1755 earthquake, though that one did less harm. But in 1797, another quake struck the city and forced yet another major restoration. That last round of work reshaped much of the cathedral’s interior. If you want to see it for yourself, you’ll need to buy a ticket or join a guided tour, and it’s well worth it. Inside, you’ll find an eclectic mix of architectural styles, from Gothic and Moorish to Baroque and Neoclassical, each layer revealing a chapter in the building’s long history. Beneath the cathedral lie the catacombs, where several key figures in Ecuador’s past are buried,  including Marshal Sucre, who rests in his own dedicated chapel. Even from outside, the building is impressive. Look up and you’ll notice green domes covered in ceramic tiles, an elegant bell tower, and a curious detail perched above it all: a rooster-shaped weather vane that’s the subject of one of Quito’s favorite legends. The story goes that there was once a man in town who was arrogant and mean-spirited. He constantly made fun of others, always criticizing and mocking his neighbors. One night, after having a bit too much to drink, he passed by the cathedral and started mocking the weather vane, laughing at how silly the rooster looked and calling it stupid. Then, out of nowhere, the rooster came to life, flew down from the tower, and attacked him. The next morning, the man woke up with a face full of scratches and no idea whether it had really happened or if it was all just a strange dream. Either way, he never walked past the square again, and he never mocked anyone after that.

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