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Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús

10 iglesia de la compania de jesus poi grand

This point of interest is available as audio on the tour: Visit Quito, Lost in the Andes

You’re now standing in front of what is, without a doubt, the most important church in Quito: the Church of the Society of Jesus ,or, as it’s more commonly known, La Compañía de Jesús. This is a church of superlatives. Over the years, it’s earned nicknames like the “Temple of Solomon of South America,” “the Ember of Gold,” and was even described by the Spanish ambassador to Ecuador as “the finest Jesuit church in the world.” It’s one of Quito’s most visited landmarks and a true gem of its architectural heritage. The facade alone is a masterpiece,  carved entirely from volcanic stone, it’s widely considered one of the best example of Baroque architecture in the Americas. But it’s the inside that really takes your breath away, because literally every inch is covered in gold leaf ,  from the walls to the columns to the ceiling. That’s right: this is one of the most lavishly decorated churches in Latin America, and possibly the richest. Pope John Paul II held Mass here in 1985, and Pope Francis came to pray before the Virgin Dolorosa in 2015. In short, this place is an absolute must-see. Entry isn’t free, but if you’ve ever dreamed of standing inside a church made of gold, this is your moment. The interior is coated with delicate 23-karat gold leaf, estimated to weigh over one ton in total. Back in the colonial era, Indigenous families would donate gold nuggets as offerings , often in the hope that their children could one day study at the Jesuit university next door. Construction of this enormous religious complex began in 1605 and wasn’t completed until 1775 , that’s 170 years in the making. Naturally, architectural styles evolved during that time, so while the overall design is Baroque, the interior actually blends four different styles. Here’s a quick crash course: the dominant style is Baroque, especially visible in the facade, which was inspired by the Church of the Gesù in Rome. But you’ll also find Mudéjar and Moorish elements, brought over by the Spanish, who themselves had absorbed centuries of Islamic influence. Then there’s the ultra-ornate Churrigueresque style, a kind of Baroque on steroids,  and finally, a few subtle touches of Neoclassicism. The church itself isn’t especially huge, but its impact comes from the overwhelming richness of its decoration. There’s even a legend that King Philip V of Spain, alarmed by the high cost of construction, leaned out from his balcony at El Escorial in Madrid and declared that if this temple was going to be that expensive, it had better be big enough to be seen from his palace. Step inside, and you’ll be dazzled by the detail. Highlights include the main altarpiece by Quito artist Bernardo de Legarda, a pulpit carved with over 250 tiny faces, which also doubles as an acoustic amplifier, a majestic pipe organ, and massive paintings of the Last Judgment and Hell. You’ll also see a set of 14 oil paintings featuring Jesus, Mary, and the twelve apostles. Off to the side is a chapel dedicated to Saint Ignatius of Loyola, the founder of the Jesuit order, and on the altar rest the relics of Ecuador’s first saint, Mariana de Jesús. After the Jesuits were expelled from the Spanish Empire in 1767, many of the church’s treasures were either auctioned off or sent back to Spain. Most of what remains is now kept in museums,  with one powerful exception: the painting of the Virgin Dolorosa. According to witnesses, the image miraculously blinked in front of 35 schoolchildren dining in the nearby refectory. The event was reportedly confirmed by teachers and analyzed by experts, and in the end, Church authorities officially recognized the miracle and approved the painting for public veneration.

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