The Butter Square

A name that makes us smile, a setting that delights the eye, and the mixed aromas of buckwheat and wheat that awaken the appetite—Place-au-Beurre, or the Butter Square, doesn’t need much more to win over its visitors. As for locals, it’s been their favorite spot for generations. Until the mid-20th century, Quimper’s town center was a hub for all kinds of trade: dairy farmers gathered on Place Médard, florists on Rue Astor, fishmongers along the Steïr, and so on. First known as Place aux Ruches (Beehive Square), then as Place du Beurre de Pot (Pot Butter Square), the square was officially named Place-au-Beurre in 1792. Logically, it became the meeting point for sellers of butter and other dairy products. The butter, traditionally very salty, was stored in stoneware jars to preserve it longer. According to legend, women from Quimper would test the quality by pricking it with the pin from their headdress, a rather picturesque image. The surrounding streets offer plenty of clues for history lovers. There are, of course, the inevitable half-timbered houses, including the one at 1 Rue du Lycée, said to be one of the smallest in Quimper. Go look at 13 Rue du Sallé, not far from where you stand, you’ll find a curious inscription carved in stone: “IHS FF par HH Guillaume Leblanc, 1683, 64 ans.” IHS stands for Iesus Hominum Salvator—“Jesus, Savior of Humankind.” Guillaume Leblanc, a former printer who worked for the nearby Jesuit college, added this religious acronym to legitimize his work without raising suspicion from royal authorities. “FF HH” means fait faire par honorable homme:“commissioned by an honorable man.” Just to the right of the L’Ardoise crêperie, there’s another half-timbered house framed by stone walls, this is a good example of a period firewall. Often depicted in paintings, the Butter Square is now home to several crêperies, much to the delight of visitors with a sweet tooth. But be warned: where there are crêpes, there is butter—and here, there’s no avoiding it! Once your stomach is satisfied, you can continue the tour by passing the nearby pavilion house with its distinctive four-sided roof. Long mistakenly thought to be the home of Canon de Boisbilly, it now houses Quimper’s heritage center.