Campo Santo

Passing through this gate into such a large, empty courtyard can leave you wondering. Where exactly are we? Why is this area enclosed like this? What are the secrets hidden behind these arcades? Exactly the kind of questions this historic site in Perpignan stirs in all of us. Campo Santo, which means ‘Holy Field,’ is one of only two cloister-cemeteries in France—the other is in Orléans. While it’s not entirely unique, its ancient origins and huge surface of 30,325 square meters make it the oldest and largest medieval cemetery in the country. In the 14th century, Perpignan was the continental capital of the Kingdom of Majorca, established in 1229 by King James I of Aragon, the great conqueror of the Balearic island of the same name. This prestigious status allowed the city to quadruple its size and double its population, reaching about 20,000 inhabitants. With so many new inhabitants, the city had to adapt quickly. For example, the old Saint-Jean Church had become too small to welcome all its worshippers, prompting the need for another place of worship nearby. The perfect plot of land turned out to be exactly where people were buried, so the local abbot asked to build a cloister-cemetery to move the graves. Construction started around 1298, and by 1302, the first tombstone was laid. Originally, Campo Santo consisted of four galleries, each covered with a wooden lean-to roof supported by marble columns with sculpted capitals. But in 1825, one of these galleries was demolished on the bishop’s orders to build a seminary, which later became a police barracks. Under each pointed arcade, decorated with the coats of arms of Perpignan’s richest families, there is a tomb. The central area of the courtyard served as a burial ground for the poorest citizens from 1321 onwards. Listed as a historic monument along with its funeral chapel, known as the Funeraria, Campo Santo remained active until the French Revolution. Today, it’s a popular venue for various cultural events, thanks to its capacity of 1,800 seats. These include Visa, one of the world’s largest photojournalism festivals, and the Live Campo Festival, a must-see musical event featuring both national and international artists.