The Ecusson district

In Montpellier, we can certainly talk about the old center, but in the mouths of the locals, the true locals, it’s mostly referred to as l’Écusson. Guardian of stories and traces of the past, this district is the most famous and lively in the Languedocian city. While strolling through it, it’s even rare to fully grasp the historical importance contained within its 52 hectares of small medieval streets. Its origins, its funny name, its peculiarities are all essential points that we shall uncover together. In the 12th century, it is said that Montpellier was already encircled by a wall. Its boundaries, however, gradually pushed back with the growth of the population, would require the creation of a new fortified enclosure as early as the following century. We’re talking about the so-called “Commune clôture” which now encompasses the historic city of the Guilhem lords and the episcopal borough, settled not far away on the neighboring hill. Safe behind the ramparts, the nerve center of the city developed, namely our dear Écusson. You must be wondering, rightfully so, the reason for such a name.If you look at a map of Montpellier, you’ll notice that the boundaries of its historic center form a pentagon — the classic shape of an escutcheon, the medieval shield used to display coats of arms. That’s exactly what ‘Écusson’ means in French. Within l’Écusson, most streets are narrow and winding, reflecting the medieval era in which they were designed. Except for Rue Foch, where the Triumphal Arch stands, and Rue de la Loge, connecting the Préfecture Square to the Comédie Square, the only witnesses to the unfinished work of Mayor Jules Pagézy, who in the 19th century, wished to create wide avenues in Montpellier, similar to Baron Haussmann’s work in Paris. Street music, bucolic squares, gourmet addresses, l’Écusson mainly offers a “café terrace” lifestyle. But in its limestone labyrinth, you might stumble upon important vestiges of the past, very interesting museums, and charming streets, like Rue du Bras de Fer (Iron Arm Street) which opens before you, whose name comes from this arm supporting one of its large chandeliers.