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Saint Anthony of the Germans Church

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This point of interest is available as audio on the tour: Visit Madrid, The landscape of light

So, you’re probably wondering why we’re stopping in front of this church, which, I’ll admit, isn’t exactly the most stunning in the city. But trust me on this one: step inside—if the small entry fee doesn’t put you off—and you’ll be blown away. The entire interior is covered, from floor to ceiling, with incredible frescoes. A quite unique church—for both its elliptical shape and breathtaking artwork. This structure goes by the name of Saint Anthony of the Germans, though it used to be called Saint Anthony of the Portuguese, as it was built to complement the Portuguese hospital founded by Philip III in 1606. You should know that from 1580 to 1640, Portugal was under the rule of the Spanish crown. That meant Spain controlled nearly half of the world, including Portuguese colonies in Brazil, Africa, and India—which understandably made other countries nervous, especially France. In this context, Cardinal Richelieu discreetly encouraged the Portuguese nobles in their revolt, hoping to weaken Spanish dominance. The uprising succeeded: the Spanish were driven out, the powerful Duke of Braganza declared himself King João IV, and Spain finally recognized Portuguese independence in 1668. Long story short, with tensions running high between Portugal and Spain—and Spanish influence still strong in Rome—the church was reassigned to the German-speaking community and renamed Saint Anthony of the Germans. The most remarkable feature is the stunning frescoes that cover the entire interior and depict the life of Saint Anthony of Padua. They were painted by some of the greatest artists of the time, including Francisco Ricci, who created the incredible trompe-l’œil effect on the dome. Trompe-l’œil, which means “deceive the eye” in French, is a painting technique that creates a striking illusion of three-dimensional space. The building has been renovated several times to preserve this priceless baroque masterpiece. Take a moment to look up—you might just forget you’re inside a church.

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