Hirschenplatz

Switzerland — or at least Lucerne — has a habit of naming streets after where they lead you. Naturally, Hirschenplatz Street has brought you to the lovely Hirschen Square. If you don’t speak German, Hirschen means “deer” — which might come as a surprise, considering this square was once Lucerne’s pig market! The name comes from the old Hotel zum Hirschen — or “Hotel of the Deer” — which no longer stands, but lives on through the golden deer sign hanging overhead. You’re surrounded by charming historic guild houses, adorned with decorative frescoes – a reminder of Lucerne’s importance and prestige as a key stop along Alpine trade routes. Decorative murals were a widespread tradition across Europe. Artists poured their imagination into these walls, giving them beautiful artistic features. Murals often honoured saints, celebrated historic events, or distinguished one house from another in a time before street numbers. Look at the neo-Gothic building nearby. Its white-background mural shows battle scenes, depicting the famous Battle of Dornach — a key Swiss victory in 1499 over the Holy Roman Empire. This victory led to the Treaty of Basel, which formally recognised the Swiss cantons as an autonomous entity, representing a turning point in Swiss history. That said, Switzerland’s full independence and neutrality wouldn’t be internationally recognised until 1815, and the country’s first federal constitution came even later, in 1848. The building next door is topped with a golden cherub, and displays elegant paintings, which recall its original purpose – a jewellery shop. Take a close look at the second-floor mural. You’ll see cherubs holding rings, each with a different gemstone. The ring on the far left doesn’t feature a diamond or a ruby. Instead, it bears a tiny skull. Could it be a symbol of eternal union, “till death do us part”? Or something more mysterious? That secret remains unsolved. I’ll let you form your own theory… Before you leave, say hello to the young man with geese at the fountain, and continue walking along the street to the left of the fountain.