Saints Peter and Paul Church

You’re now standing in front of the stunning Church of Saints Peter and Paul, one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in Poland. Built at the end of the 16th century by the Jesuits, it marked the beginning of the Counter-Reformation in Kraków. You’ll easily spot it along Grodzka Street—just look for the balustrade lined with statues of the twelve apostles. Now for a little art history interlude. The Baroque style was the artistic expression of the Counter-Reformation, launched by the Catholic Church after the Council of Trent. In the 15th and 16th centuries, reformers like Martin Luther and John Calvin criticised the Church’s wealth and corruption, calling for a return to the core values of Christianity. Their criticism gave rise to Protestantism, as a protest against what they saw as corruption. The Catholic Church, determined to hold on to its spiritual and political authority, launched its own campaign: the Counter-Reformation. The Church understood how powerful art can be in shaping public opinion and enlisted great artists to help them. The result was Baroque art—the opposite of Protestant restraint. Baroque works boldly proclaimed the glory of God. They were full of warm colours, dramatic contrasts, carefully crafted lighting, and emotionally expressive faces. Ironically, the word Baroque was coined later, originally as an insult. It came from words meaning “irregular” or “bizarre,” used by critics who thought the style was a distorted version of the Renaissance. Art lesson aside: in the church’s crypt lies the sarcophagus of Piotr Skarga, a brilliant Jesuit priest and preacher whose eloquent sermons were collected and published. The church also hosts classical music concerts. One last detail—the statues of the twelve apostles you see today are copies; the originals were damaged over time.