The Castle of the Counts

No visit to Ghent would be complete without stopping at the Castle of the Counts. Proud, imposing, and a little defiant, this fortress was built in 1180 by Count Philip of Alsace. It rose on the ruins of earlier wooden defenses dating back to the 9th century, built during the Norman invasions. Philip, a French nobleman who became Count of Flanders in 1157, had a clear message to send: I’m in charge. At the time, Ghent was a prosperous city, and wealthy merchants held considerable influence, which deeply concerned the Count. What’s more, Philip of Alsace was of French origin and seen as a foreigner who didn’t speak the local language. Building this castle was a strong reminder to the people of Ghent about who really held power. Inspired by the castles he’d seen on Crusade, Count Philip designed the fortress with a central keep rising three stories high, deep moats, and solid defensive walls. It was built to endure sieges, stocked with food, weapons, and everything needed to survive under attack. The Counts of Flanders made this their royal residence until the 15th century. It later served as a courthouse, then a prison. The castle’s history still bears the scars of this brutal period: narrow dungeons and the torture museum bear witness to the punishments once inflicted here. You can visit the museum if you have a strong stomach—it contains a chilling collection of interrogation instruments. During the Wars of Religion, numerous Protestants were imprisoned here for heresy. But the castle’s story didn’t stop there. In the late 1700s, it was sold to private owners who transformed it into a cotton mill. Around 50 workers and their families lived and worked inside the old walls, often in harsh conditions. While the building was altered for industrial use, its medieval core survived. Luckily, it was saved from demolition by a Belgian baron passionate about history. He helped restore the fortress for the 1913 World’s Fair in Ghent, turning it into the monument before us. Today, the Castle of the Counts is the only medieval fortress in Flanders whose defensive system is still largely intact. Its guardhouse, ramparts, keep, stables, torture museum, and the Counts’ residence are accessible to visitors, offering an immersive journey into Flanders’ medieval past. There’s an entrance fee, but it’s well worth it for an authentic experience steeped in history!