Saint Michael’s Church

Just as beautiful by day as it is by night, Saint Michael’s Church shows up on plenty of Ghent’s postcards. But behind its picture-perfect façade lies a turbulent history. Construction began in 1440, replacing a Romanesque chapel from the 11th century that was destroyed by fire. The work stretched on for centuries, delayed by war and unrest—especially during the Wars of Religion. Back then, in the 16th century, Ghent was part of the Spanish Netherlands, torn between Spanish Catholic forces and rebellious Calvinist Protestants. The conflict’s high point came in 1566 during the Iconoclastic Fury, when Calvinists stormed Catholic churches, smashing statues and stained glass they saw as symbols of idolatry. Here’s an intriguing anecdote: Ghent’s brewers, the church’s main benefactors, came up with a clever way to protect it. They offered free beer to the angry mobs, hoping to calm them down and keep the building safe. Still, like many churches, Saint Michael’s suffered damage and had to stop construction for decades. When work resumed, the interior was finished in the Brabant Gothic style, typical of the Low Countries. An ambitious plan was even drawn up to build a 134-meter tower—higher than any church spire in Europe, but the dream was abandoned, and a flat roof was built instead. Perhaps it was for the best, as it turned out that the ground beneath wasn’t stable enough to hold such a massive structure. Step inside to admire the striking brick vaults, the dramatic pulpit, the Neo-Gothic altar, and some beautiful Flemish religious paintings. Take your time exploring—when you’re ready, we’ll head toward the quays.