Herring, the King of Dieppe

A Dieppe slogan says ” dieppois fish, premium quality fish “. Sounds a bit chauvinistic, doesn’t it? Well, it’s hardly more chauvinistic than any other belief held by French people who are proud of their home region or town. Herring is one of the fish that the Normandy town can boast of being the finest when it comes to fishing and cooking. Take a trip to the Pollet district, formerly known as the fishermen’s quarter, for a brief insight into the origins of this special relationship between Dieppe and herring. Herrings were mostly fished in autumn, or during the major festivals that featured them, and for a long time they were a lifeline for the people of Dieppe. In the Middle Ages, herring was the only fish that could be caught in sufficient quantities to last throughout the long winter months and sustain the town’s economy, which was particularly hard hit in times of famine. Around 1300, Dieppe herrings were even sold on the market stalls of Paris and Rouen through a regular coach service, also known as the “chasse-marée”. Over the centuries, interest in herring fishing continued to grow. It is said that in the 19th century, more than 200 boats were involved in this activity, going north in the summer to stock up, and then to the Normandy cliffs when winter came. Herrings were sold under a variety of strange names, most of which were related to the way they were prepared. There were ‘ herrings powder’, rolled in flour and salt; herrings in ‘groe’, probably filleted; truffle herrings, caught only between Christmas and Easter; and white herrings, salted and of the highest quality, given as gifts to important people. Once the king of fish, always the king of fish, for over 50 years herring has been the star of a fair held in Dieppe every third weekend in November. For two days, seafood products and trades are showcased in a rich programme held along the Quai Henri IV. Grilled, marinated, fresh and accompanied as it should be by a baked potato topped with a melted knob of salted butter, herring is the gastronomic highlight of the event. Closely followed by scallop, another flagship product of the destination. All in all, November is a great time to be in Dieppe!