Ravanel le Rouge

In Chamonix, the names of local heroes are everywhere—even on the street signs. You’ve just walked along Rue du Docteur Paccard, named after the pioneering climber who made the first ascent of Mont Blanc. And now, you’re facing Avenue Ravanel le Rouge—named in honor of another legendary figure in the valley. He came more than a century later, but left just as lasting a mark on the world of mountaineering. Alfred Ravanel—nicknamed “Le Rouge” for his fiery red hair—was born in Argentière during the winter of 1869. He became a mountain guide at the age of 27 and soon made a name for himself with several first ascents in the Mont Blanc massif. Among them: the Aiguille du Fou, the Dent du Crocodile, and the Aiguille des Pèlerins. He often climbed with his brother Jean and his most loyal client, Émile Fontaine—a mountaineer and photographer. His reputation reached new heights in 1901, when he guided King Albert I of Belgium on the legendary traverse from the Petit to the Grand Dru. That climb earned him a second nickname—an especially flattering one: “king of guides, and guide of kings.” Ravanel was a true pioneer. He was among the first to use skis in high-altitude terrain, taking part in the 1903 Chamonix-Zermatt race. He even inspired the main character in Roger Frison-Roche’s novel Premier de cordée (First on the Rope). Like a cat with nine lives, Ravanel le Rouge survived several serious accidents. In one of the most dramatic moments of his career, he narrowly escaped a lightning strike that sadly claimed the life of fellow guide Joseph Simond. He spent the final years of his life with his wife as the guardians of the Couvercle refuge, before passing away at 62 from a lung infection. At his funeral, the crowd that came to pay their respects was enormous. If you’d like to pay him a visit yourself, you’ll find his grave in Biollay cemetery, beside his rope companions.