The missing Odon

Now that we’ve arrived in Moulin street, I’d like to use this opportunity to say a few words on the importance of water in Caen over the years. You may not realise it today, but Caen was once known as the Venice of Normandy, as it was dotted with rivers. I’m mentioning it here for two reasons. The first reason is to let you know that the Grand Odon once flowed here, and the second is the name of the street, which recalls the presence of mills in Caen, which provided the city with energy between the 11th and 19th centuries. Behind the romantic image that you can easily associate with the nickname of Norman Venice, lies an entirely different reality. The main canals, criss-crossed by boats, were used by washerwomen to wash their clothes, and also served as watering places for horses. Above all, however, they were open sewers, and Caen had the unfortunate reputation of being one of the dirtiest towns in France! After two cholera epidemics in the 19th century, the city began to organise the purification of its rivers by installing sewers. Hygiene requirements, coupled with the arrival of modern urban planning and the growth of the city, led to the disappearance of the various canals beneath concrete. In around 300 metres, you will be arriving at the back of the magnificent Saint Pierre church, which was once bathed by river water and where the fortified Chatelet bridge once stood. A few quick internet searches are all it takes to find images from that era, which show other aspects of the town and serve as a reminder of the many other lives Caen has had in the past.