Saint-Nicolas Place

Welcome to Bastia’s main square — Place Saint-Nicolas!

A real favourite with the locals, this lively plaza is buzzing with energy all year round. In summer, it hosts open-air concerts; in winter, there’s a Christmas market, a Ferris wheel, and an ice rink. What’s more, a charming flea market takes over every Sunday morning. There’s even a Chocolate Fair in October!

This huge esplanade, surprisingly vast for a town this size, is lined with trees and dotted with tall palm trees at one end, giving it an instant Mediterranean feel. Right in the centre, you’ll see a bandstand. Though it was recently restored, it dates back to 1908.

Take a moment to look at the war memorial behind you. It was first unveiled in 1925, but locals weren’t too fond of the original pedestal. A new one was added in 1935. The statue, sculpted by Louis Patriarche, shows a Corsican widow, Margherita Paccioni, who lost two of her sons fighting for independence. In this powerful scene, she’s offering her last son to Pascal Paoli, one of Corsica’s most iconic historical figures, whom we’ll talk about more later.

The monument honours all national heroes and includes references to several major conflicts. On the front, you’ll spot the dates 1945–1954 and 1952–1962, marking the wars in Indochina and Algeria. The sides feature the dates of both World Wars and even the Franco-Prussian War of 1870, a moving tribute to all who served.

Speaking of tributes, behind you at the far end of the square stands a replica of the submarine Casabianca, a symbol of Bastia’s resistance during World War II. It played a key role in the city’s liberation and was one of only five submarines to survive the war, out of thirty-one.

To get a closer look, head towards the corner of the square and cross the road ,you can’t miss it. Now, turn your attention to the other side of the bandstand, where you’ll find a statue of Napoleon Bonaparte, portrayed like a Roman emperor. This was the first monument placed on the square. It was sculpted in 1813 by Florentine artist Lorenzo Bartolini. It was originally commissioned by Napoleon’s sister Elisa for the city of Livorno, but the project fell through. The statue stayed in the sculptor’s studio for years before making its way to Bastia. Draped in a toga, crowned with laurels, Napoleon holds a sceptre in one hand and a scroll in the other. He’s shown as a Roman emperor, or even the god Jupiter, with similar attributes and an eagle by his side. On the back of the pedestal, you’ll see Bastia’s coat of arms.

Back to the square itself: it was laid out in the 18th century as a public promenade. It’s had quite a few names over time — Place Narbonne, Champ de Mars, Place de la Rivière, Place Louis-Philippe, before becoming Place Saint-Nicolas, named after a small chapel that once stood here.

Today, the square is lined with cafés, restaurants, and elegant buildings, many of them once palaces built by the island’s wealthiest families. Keep an eye out for number 15 on Boulevard Général de Gaulle. That’s where you’ll find the Mattei boutique, famous for its L.N. Mattei brand of apéritifs and spirits, especially the iconic Cap Corse Mattei, created here in Bastia in 1872.

The shop, with its bright red façade just behind the war memorial, invites you in to explore a wide selection of local wines, liqueurs, and champagnes. Now that you’ve soaked up the history, feel free to wander around and enjoy Place Saint-Nicolas at your own pace. It’s one of the largest squares in all of France. When you’re ready, we’ll continue the tour!