Forbin Square

Forbin Square marks the end of the Cours Mirabeau. It was laid out at the same time as the latter boulevard to become one of the city’s central squares. Take a look behind you at the large statue at its center. It sits atop a fountain, known as the King René Fountain. It was designed in 1819 by David d’Angers to designs by Pierre-Henri Révoil. It depicts the so-called “Good King René”, Duke of Anjou and Count of Provence, plus a host of other titles. He was born in Angers in 1409 and died in Aix-en-Provence in 1480. He helped rebuild the local economy and limit the power of the nobility in the County of Provence, at a time when ongoing conflicts and the Great Plague were taking their toll. He was an educated man, a lover of the arts, and he advocated for the protection of forests. Angers, Aix, and Avignon all prospered under his rule. Here, he is depicted wearing the crown of the Counts of Provence, with a scepter in his right hand and a bunch of Muscat grapes in his left, as it is said that he was the one to have brought this variety of grapes to Provence. There are two medallions on either side of the pedestal, one depicting Jean Matheron de Salignac, one of his ministers, and the other Palamède de Forbin, governor and lieutenant-general of Provence in the late 15th century. The statue has been here for 200 years now, and it caused quite a stir when it was first unveiled, as the townsfolk simply couldn’t recognize the face of their Good King; according to them, it looked nothing like him! And yet, it was supposedly modeled on one of his portraits… The mystery of King René’s face remains unsolved, yet his legacy in Aix is writ large. He spent his last eight years here, and his statue, a listed historical monument, now stands proudly in Forbin Square, having replaced the old Pyramid fountain. As for the square, it’s one of the busiest and liveliest in Aix-en-Provence, thanks to its prime location on the Cours Mirabeau! A little further ahead, on your right, you’ll find the “Les Deux Garçons” café. It’s the dark green building at number 53. This iconic café is housed in the Hôtel de Gantès, a private mansion built in 1660. Interestingly, it’s always been owned by people whose last names start with a “G” – hence its nickname, the “2 Gs”. First, there was Mr Gros, who ran a former inn, followed by Mr de Gantès, who made it into the elegant building it is today. Then came Mr Guion, followed by Mr Guérin, and finally Mr Guidoni and Mr Guérini, who run it now as a café. Originally a hangout spot for nobles and the upper middle classes, it became the “Café Julien” after the French Revolution, before taking on its current name, “Les Deux Garçons”, in 1840. Throughout its history, it has welcomed many famous personalities, including Paul Cézanne, Émile Zola, Raimu and Picasso, and even celebrities like Edith Piaf, Jean Cocteau and Alain Delon. The building was damaged by fire in 2019, but it was swiftly restored to its former glory. Once inside, its beautiful period décor is sure to leave you spellbound!