Discovery of Selinunte, a major archaeological site in Sicily
Nestling on the south-west coast of Sicily, the archaeological site of Selinunte is one of the most impressive testimonies to ancient Greek civilisation in the Mediterranean. Founded in the 7th century BC by settlers from Megara Hyblaea, this ancient and prosperous city today boasts majestic temples, an imposing acropolis and remains that continue to fascinate archaeologists and visitors from all over the world. With its ruins stretching over almost 270 hectares facing the Mediterranean Sea, Selinunte offers a captivating journey through the history of Magna Graecia.
The fascinating history of Selinunte
The history of Selinunte begins in the 7th century BC, when Greek colonists from Megara Hyblaea decided to settle on this strategic Sicilian coast. According to the Athenian historian Thucydides, the city was founded around 628-627 BC, although some sources put the date at 651 BC. The city’s name comes from the Greek word “selinon”, referring to a variety of parsley or wild celery that grew in abundance in the region. This emblematic plant was engraved on the city’s coins, testifying to its cultural and economic importance.
Thanks to its privileged position and flourishing agriculture, Selinunte soon enjoyed remarkable prosperity. The city became one of the richest Greek colonies in Sicily, rivalling the great metropolises of the time. The inhabitants built monumental temples that rank among the largest in ancient Greek architecture. However, this period of glory came to an abrupt end in 409 BC, when the Carthaginians led by Hannibal Mago destroyed the city after a bloody siege. According to ancient historians, more than 16,000 inhabitants were killed and a further 5,000 enslaved. Although partially rebuilt, Selinunte never regained its former splendour and was definitively abandoned in the third century BC.
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The temples of Selinunte: jewels of Greek architecture
The archaeological park of Selinunte (Piazzale Bovio Marconi, 91022 Marinella TP, rated 4.6/5 on Google out of 17,950 reviews) is home to some of the most imposing temples of ancient Greece, all built in Doric style. Although the exact identity of the deities to whom they were dedicated is sometimes uncertain, these buildings bear spectacular witness to Greek architectural genius and the power of this ancient city.
1. Temple E: the best restored building
Located on the eastern hill, Temple E is undoubtedly the most impressive monument in Selinunte. Built around 460-450 BC, it is generally attributed to Hera, although this attribution is still a matter of debate among archaeologists. This temple is one of the most recent buildings in the complex and bears witness to the architectural refinement achieved by the builders of Selinunte. Partially rebuilt in the 1950s, it stands majestically with its massive columns and harmonious proportions, offering a dazzling example of classical Greek architecture. Its imposing dimensions (67 metres long and 25 metres wide) and excellent state of conservation make it one of the most photographed sites in Sicily.
2. Temple G: the unfinished giant
Temple G represents one of the most ambitious constructions ever undertaken by the Greeks. At 110 metres long and 50 metres wide, it would have been one of the largest temples in the Greek world had it been completed. It is thought that it could have been dedicated to Zeus or Apollo, but the lack of definitive proof maintains the mystery of its true attribution. Now in ruins, its collapsed columns and monumental fragments scattered across the ground offer a striking vision of the scale of this titanic project. A 16-metre-high column still lies on the ground, giving us an idea of the majesty of the finished edifice. Construction work began in the 6th century BC and was interrupted by the Carthaginian destruction of 409 BC.
3. Temple C: the oldest temple on the acropolis
Built around 580-550 BC on the acropolis, Temple C is the oldest and largest peripteral temple in Selinunte (24 metres by 64 metres). Perhaps built on the foundations of a small pre-archaic temple, it was probably dedicated to Apollo or Athena. The temple is notable for its remarkable sculpted metopes, now housed in Palermo’s archaeological museum, depicting mythological scenes of great artistic finesse. Although partially in ruins, its remains still allow us to appreciate the sophistication of archaic Greek architecture.
4. Temple F: shrouded in mystery
Located near temple E on the eastern hill, temple F remains one of Selinunte’s most enigmatic buildings. Hypotheses suggest that it may have been dedicated to Athena or Dionysus, but archaeologists are unable to agree on a precise divinity. Built in the 6th century BC, this more modest temple is now partially destroyed. Its ruins nevertheless retain a mysterious charm that invites visitors to imagine its former splendour and ponder the secrets it still holds.
In addition to these major temples, the site also includes temples A, B, D and O on the acropolis, as well as temple M at the sanctuary of Malophoros, each of which contributes to our understanding of this extraordinary civilisation.
The acropolis: the political and religious heart of the city
Perched on a hill overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, the acropolis of Selinunte was the nerve centre of the ancient city. It was here that the city’s main political, religious and commercial activities were concentrated. Exploring this archaeological area reveals the remains of the city walls that once protected the city, the foundations of ancient public buildings, narrow streets that bear witness to Greek urban planning, and sophisticated fortifications designed to defend the city against invaders.
The acropolis was also home to five temples (A, B, C, D and O), whose ruins bear witness to the intense religious activity that animated this sacred quarter. The agora, the central square of public life where assemblies and commercial exchanges took place, was also located on the acropolis. Today, the site is dotted with olive trees and Mediterranean plants, creating a peaceful, poetic atmosphere that contrasts with the city’s tumultuous history. A walk around the acropolis invites you to imagine daily life as it was in the past, when the Greeks dominated these lands and Selinunte held sway over the whole of the western Mediterranean.
The sanctuary of Malophoros: devotion to Demeter
A few kilometres west of the acropolis stands the sanctuary of Malophoros, dedicated to Demeter, the goddess of fertility and agriculture. This sanctuary was one of the most important places of worship in Selinunte, and the ruins of its altars, columns and walls bear witness to the inhabitants’ deep devotion to this essential divinity. The name ‘Malophoros’ literally means ‘bearer of apples’ or ‘bearer of fruit’, underlining the close link between this goddess and bountiful harvests.
Rituals dedicated to Demeter played a central role in a region as agricultural as Selinunte, where prosperity depended heavily on the harvest. The sanctuary also included a temenos (sacred precinct) dedicated to Zeus Meilichios and Hecate, testifying to the complexity of Selinunte’s religious pantheon. Archaeological excavations have uncovered numerous votive offerings, terracotta figurines and inscriptions that tell us a great deal about the religious practices of the time. This spiritual site reflects the importance attached by the Greeks to the divine protection of their land and crops.
The Cusa quarries: witness to the work of the builders
Around 13 kilometres north-west of Selinunte are the extraordinary Cusa quarries (Cave di Cusa), which were an integral part of the archaeological park. These ancient quarries are a unique archaeological site in the world, providing fascinating evidence of the stone quarrying and cutting techniques used by the Greeks to build their monumental temples. It was here that the huge blocks of limestone used to build the temples of Selinunte were quarried.
Stone quarrying began in the 6th century BC and came to an abrupt halt in 409 BC, when Selinunte was destroyed by the Carthaginians. This sudden interruption froze the quarries in time, like a snapshot of the work of the stonemasons. We can still see half-cut columns, column drums ready to be transported, and even blocks still attached to the parent rock. These remains provide a detailed understanding of the extraction process: the workers first traced a circle of the desired diameter, then chiselled downwards to free the block, before detaching it from its base. Transporting these colossal masses (some weighing over 40 tonnes) to the construction site, 13 kilometres away, was a remarkable technical feat.
A visit to the quarries at Cusa is a perfect complement to a visit to the archaeological site of Selinunte, offering a unique insight into the organisation of work and the ingenuity of Greek builders. The site, surrounded by centuries-old olive trees, exudes a special atmosphere where time seems to have stood still more than 2,400 years ago.
Practical information for visiting Selinunte
Download the audio tour to discover Sicily on foot and on your own
To explore Sicily in depth and discover the island’s wonders beyond Selinunte, Navaway offers a complete audio tour of Palermo. This itinerary accompanies you on your discovery of Sicily’s major sites thanks to fun and informative audio guides available directly on your smartphone. So you can explore the island’s treasures at your own pace, with enriching historical and cultural explanations at every stage of your journey. The tour includes Selinunte, of course, but also other must-see archaeological sites such as Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples, Syracuse and Segesta.
Opening times and admission charges
The Selinunte archaeological park is open every day, with opening times varying according to the season. From 29 October to 15 March, the site is open from 9am to 5pm (ticket office closes at 4pm). From 16 March to 15 September, opening times are extended to 9am to 6pm (ticket office closes at 5pm). From 16 September to 28 October, opening hours are from 9am to 6pm. During the high summer season, the park may remain open until 8pm. It is advisable to check the updated opening times on the official website before your visit.
The standard entrance fee is €12 per adult (some sources mention €10, please check). Admission is free for under-18s and EU citizens over 65. Reduced rates are also available for young people aged between 18 and 25 (around €2) and for groups. A €25 family ticket is also available. A shuttle bus in a small electric train runs between the different areas of the park for a supplement of around €5-6 per person, which is highly recommended given the size of the site (around 10 km on foot to visit everything).
How to get to Selinunte
Selinunte is located near the town of Castelvetrano, in the province of Trapani, on the south-western coast of Sicily. By car, the journey from Palermo takes around 1? hours (95 km) via the A29 motorway and then the SS115. From Trapani, the journey takes around 1 hour (72 km). From Agrigento, it’s about an hour and 15-minute drive west. On-site parking is free and included in the entrance fee, with a good-capacity car park near the park entrance.
If you’re travelling by public transport, there are regular bus services from Palermo and Trapani to Castelvetrano. From Castelvetrano, local buses serve Marinella di Selinunte (where the archaeological site is located). The journey from Palermo by bus takes around 2? to 3 hours. Alternatively, you can take the train to Castelvetrano (Palermo-Trapani line), then a bus or taxi to the site (around 10 km). Please note that bus timetables can be limited, especially in low season, so it’s best to plan your return journey in advance.
Visit duration and practical advice
For a complete exploration of the two main areas of the park (the eastern hill with temples E, F and G, and the acropolis), allow at least 3-4 hours. If you also wish to visit the sanctuary of Malophoros and take your time photographing each ruin while enjoying the Mediterranean scenery, a half-day (5-6 hours) is recommended. Archaeology and photography enthusiasts will easily be able to devote a whole day to this, especially if you plan to include the Cusa quarries in your visit.
As the site is vast and largely unpaved, it is essential to wear comfortable walking shoes suitable for uneven terrain. Sicily can be particularly hot in summer, so be sure to bring plenty of water (there are a few refreshment points, but it’s best to plan ahead), a hat, sunglasses and sun cream. Shade is rare on the site, especially on the eastern hill. On the other hand, spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) offer ideal conditions, with pleasant temperatures and lush vegetation further enhancing the ruins. There are several small cafés and food outlets in the main areas of the site, offering refreshing drinks and snacks.
Don’t hesitate to let yourself be guided in your exploration of the park by the Navaway audio tours, which will greatly enrich your understanding of this exceptional site and ensure that you don’t miss any important details of Selinunte’s fascinating history.
What to see around Selinunte
The area around Selinunte is full of interesting sites well worth a visit. Just 12 kilometres to the north is Castelvetrano, a charming Sicilian town known for its historic Baroque centre and the Madre church with its spectacular gilded ceiling. The town is also home to the Civic Museum, which exhibits the Ephebe of Selinunte, a magnificent fifth-century BC bronze statue discovered at the archaeological site in 1882.
Around 60 kilometres to the east lies Agrigento and its famous Valley of the Temples, another exceptional Greek archaeological site listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The comparison between these two major sites is fascinating and allows you to appreciate the diversity of Greek architecture in Sicily. To the north-west, around 50 kilometres away, the archaeological site of Segesta impresses with its magnificently preserved Doric temple and its Greek theatre offering an exceptional panoramic view.
The beach at Marinella di Selinunte, in the immediate vicinity of the archaeological park, offers beautiful stretches of fine sand and crystal-clear waters. It’s the ideal place to cool off after a day of sightseeing under the Sicilian sun. Finally, for a complete immersion in Sicilian culture, a visit to Palermo, the regional capital around 100 kilometres to the north-east, will reveal an exceptional architectural heritage combining Arab, Norman and Baroque influences.
In conclusion, the archaeological site of Selinunte is a must-see on any trip to Sicily. With its majestic temples, history-laden acropolis and ancient quarries frozen in time, this exceptional archaeological park offers a fascinating journey back to ancient Greece. Whether you’re an archaeology enthusiast, a history buff or simply curious about the beauty of the Mediterranean, Selinunte will amaze you with the grandeur of its remains and the beauty of its natural setting. Don’t hesitate to extend your discovery of Sicily by following the Navaway audioguide itineraries, which will accompany you as you explore the treasures of this extraordinary island where each stone tells a thousand-year-old story.
FAQ – Frequently asked questions about Selinunte
When is the best time to visit Selinunte?
The best time to visit Selinunte is from April to June and September to October. The temperatures are pleasant (20-25°C), the vegetation is lush in spring, and you’ll avoid the summer crowds as well as the sweltering heat of July and August, when temperatures can exceed 35°C with little shade on site.
How long does it take to visit Selinunte?
Allow at least 3 to 4 hours to visit the two main areas of the park (the eastern hill and the acropolis). For a full visit, including the sanctuary of Malophoros and the Cusa quarries, allow half a day to a full day. The site covers almost 270 hectares, and it takes around 10 km to explore it all on foot.
Should you take the internal shuttle or walk?
The shuttle bus service (about €5-6 per person) is highly recommended, especially in summer. The distances between the different areas are considerable (around 1.5km between the eastern hill and the acropolis), and the sun can be intense. The shuttle bus saves you energy in exploring the temples themselves and makes the visit much more comfortable.
Can children visit Selinunte?
Yes, Selinunte is family-friendly. Admission is free for under-18s. The site is large and offers plenty of space for children to stretch their legs. However, be sure to bring water, snacks and sun protection. The internal shuttle bus is particularly popular with children, as it avoids long, tiring walks. The impressive ruins usually capture the imagination of young visitors.
Selinunte or Agrigento: which site to choose?
Both sites are well worth a visit and offer different experiences. Selinunte is larger, less crowded and offers a wilder atmosphere with sea views. Agrigento (Valley of the Temples) has better-preserved temples, notably the Temple of Concord, and is internationally renowned. If you have to choose, Agrigento is more accessible and concentrated, while Selinunte will appeal more to archaeology enthusiasts looking for a less touristy atmosphere. Ideally, you should visit both if your schedule allows.
Are there any restaurants near Selinunte?
Yes, there are several restaurants and trattorias in Marinella di Selinunte, the seaside village adjacent to the archaeological site. You’ll find establishments serving authentic Sicilian cuisine, pizzerias and fish restaurants. Inside the park, small cafés offer refreshing drinks, ice creams and snacks. For a full meal, it’s best to leave the site and head for Marinella.
Is it possible to swim near Selinunte?
Absolutely! The beach at Marinella di Selinunte, just a few hundred metres from the archaeological site, offers beautiful stretches of fine sand and crystal-clear waters. It’s the ideal place to cool off after a visit to the park under the Sicilian sun. There are several lidos (beaches with deckchairs and parasols) and free public beach areas.
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