Farm inns in Alsace: an authentic gourmet journey
Perched high in the Vosges mountains, Alsace’s farmhouse inns embody a centuries-old tradition where gastronomy and heritage come together in harmony. Between lush green pastures and breathtaking panoramas, these authentic establishments invite you to discover the marcaire meal, a true emblem of Alsatian culture. From Rogabrageldi to Munster cheese, each speciality tells the story of the marcaires, the farmers who have been perpetuating the art of mountain hospitality for centuries.
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- What culinary specialities are on offer in Colmar?
- Top 5 things to do in Colmar
Alsace’s farmhouse inns: a gourmet tradition steeped in history
The history of farmhouse inns in Alsace goes back more than ten centuries, with its roots in the pastoral traditions of the Vosges mountains. These authentic establishments are much more than just places to eat: they represent a genuine cultural heritage handed down from generation to generation.
The origins of the Marcaire tradition
In the past, farmers from the valleys would take their herds to the high stubble fields of the Vosges ridges during the summer months. These mountain farmers, known as marcaires (a term derived from the Alsatian dialect Malker meaning “he who milks the cows”), set up their animals in small alpine farms to enjoy the fragrant pastures. The region’s signature breed, the Vosgienne, produces exceptional milk that is ideal for making the famous Munster cheese, while also helping to maintain the countryside.
With the development of hiking trails and the creation of the Club Vosgien in 1872, the first visitors began to venture to the heights. The marcaires then got into the habit of welcoming these hikers by offering them drinks and farm produce such as bacon, cheese and homemade bread. Thus were born the first farmhouse inns, veritable gastronomic institutions in Alsace.
Transhumance, a living tradition
Even today, Alsatian marcaires carry on the tradition of taking their herds up into the mountains in summer, in the famous transhumance. For this decisive moment, the cows and their beautiful bells are cleaned, brushed and trimmed before setting off for the mountain pastures. The farmhouse inns have expanded and modernised over the years, and now offer a complete experience, with the option of spending the night to fully immerse yourself in the mountain atmosphere.
The Marcaire meal: a traditional Alsatian feast
The farmhouse meal is the centrepiece of the farmhouse experience. This generous, traditional menu features farm produce and local specialities in a series of hearty dishes that will satisfy even the most robust of appetites.
Gourmet starters
The meal usually begins with a hearty homemade soup with seasonal vegetables, lovingly simmered according to traditional recipes. This is often followed by the traditional meat pie with green salad, a creamy preparation in which the meat is cooked and served in a crusty puff pastry shell.
The famous Rogabrageldi, star of the main course
The heart of the Marcaire meal is undeniably Rogabrageldi, a speciality whose name can only be pronounced by Alsatians! This unique dish consists of potatoes stewed for several hours in a pot, accompanied by smoked collet (smoked pork loin) and salad. The slow, gentle cooking gives the potatoes a melt-in-the-mouth texture and an incomparable flavour.
Farmhouse cheese platter
Before dessert, enjoy a tasting of the farm’s cheeses. As well as the famous Munster, the undisputed star of the region, recognisable by its powerful smell and strong flavour, you’ll discover other specialities such as Bargkass (a mature mountain cheese) and Tomme des Vosges. These cheeses are made on site from the milk of Vosges cows grazing in the surrounding mountain pastures.
The traditional Moroccan dessert
To round off this feast, don’t miss the Siaskass, a traditional dessert made with fresh cheese of the day sprinkled with Kirsch brandy, double cream and sugar. It’s an explosion of flavours that combines sweetness and freshness to perfection! You can also opt for a fromage blanc tart, wild blueberry tart or other seasonal fruit tart, depending on the time of year.
Download the audio-guided tour to discover Colmar on foot and on your own
Before or after your gourmet escapade in the farmhouse inns, take the time to visit Colmar, the wine capital of Alsace. Thanks to the Navaway audio tour, wander through Little Venice, admire the colourful half-timbered houses and discover the 21 places of interest in this enchanting medieval town. A 4.7 km tour in 2 hours 10 minutes lets you explore Colmar’s architectural treasures on your own. Discover the complete itinerary for visiting Colmar and enjoy an immersive experience at the heart of authentic Alsace.
The Route des Crêtes: an exceptional natural setting
To reach the most authentic farmhouse inns, you need to take to the skies and follow the legendary Route des Crêtes. This panoramic route offers breathtaking scenery and is the ideal starting point for discovering local traditions.
An unforgettable panoramic route
The Route des Crêtes runs for 73 kilometres from Cernay to Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines, winding its way through the Vosges mountains on the border between the Alsace plain and the Lorraine plateau. Accessible from the valley of Munster, it takes you from hairpin to hairpin towards exceptional panoramas. The landscape gradually reveals its treasures: high thatch grasslands, dense forests, mysterious peat bogs and sparkling high altitude lakes. This precious natural heritage is protected and forms part of the Ballons des Vosges Regional Nature Park.
A paradise for nature lovers
Outdoor enthusiasts will find plenty to do on the Route des Crêtes, in summer and winter alike. Hiking, climbing, mountain biking and paragliding in summer; downhill skiing, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in winter: the possibilities are endless for exploring these magnificent mountains. In autumn, the spectacle is particularly striking when the mist fills the valleys while the sun shines on the summits. A veritable ocean of clouds unfolds before your eyes, and on a clear day you can even see the curve of the Alps on the horizon.
Watching chamois in the wild
The emblem of the Vosges mountains, the chamois attracts many keen hikers in search of the perfect shot. These graceful wild animals are now very common in the massif and are easy to spot around the summit of the Hohneck. To maximise your chances of spotting them, it’s best to go out early in the morning or at sunset, when they are most active.
1. The Kahlenwasen: authenticity and panoramic views from the Petit Ballon
From Munster, head towards the Petit Ballon to discover the Kahlenwasen farm inn. The Lochert family welcomes you all summer long to an idyllic setting in the middle of the mountains, where you can enjoy the traditional marcaire meal and other delights such as fondue au bouillon. There’s also a shop where you can buy farm products to take away, including artisan cheeses, smoked charcuterie and homemade jams.
To extend the experience and wake you up to the Vosges peaks, Kahlenwasen offers unusual accommodation. Imagine opening your eyes to a breathtaking panorama, lulled only by the gentle melody of bells hanging from cows’ necks. It’s a night in the wilderness you’ll never forget!
2. The Auberge du Schantzwasen and the reindeer farm
The Auberge du Schantzwasen welcomes you to the heart of the Tanet massif, summer and winter alike. Situated right in the middle of the Tanet ski resort, this family-run inn enjoys a privileged location. From its panoramic terrace, relax and admire the breathtaking views of the Munster valley, the German Black Forest and the Swiss Alps on a clear day.
When it comes to gastronomy, typical dishes are revisited to offer you refined and authentic dishes. For example, you can try the Munster Strudel Croustillant, a delicacy made with Rogabrageldi, smoked bacon, caraway, grated apple and farmhouse Munster cheese, all wrapped in a sheet of golden brick pastry. Traditional dishes are also on the menu: Fleischschnaka (meat snails), home-made Spaetzle with meat in sauce, hind stew… You can spend the night in mountain-style accommodation for a truly authentic stay.
Right next to the hostel, don’t miss the reindeer farm! This unique site invites you on an educational journey to meet these mythical animals. Depending on the season, the reindeer farm has 30 to 40 reindeer in a natural area dedicated to them. It’s a magical attraction that will delight young and old alike, and give you the impression of being transported to Lapland!
3. The Auberge du Schupferen: a hidden treasure in the mountains
The Auberge du Schupferen is a real treasure that we’d almost like to keep secret. Nestling in the heart of the Tanet massif, it is only accessible by ski or snowshoes in winter, while a forest path takes you there in summer. Unlike other farm inns that have chosen to expand and modernise, the Schupferen family jealously guards the tranquillity of this exceptional place, which has remained unchanged for decades.
This small, intimate inn, which is best booked in advance, offers simply delicious food at very reasonable prices (no more than €13 for a very hearty dish). On the menu, there is a choice of two dishes prepared with products of exceptional quality. Traditional Fleischschnakas are often on offer, as well as other meats such as beef gros sel served on a huge platter accompanied by fresh vegetables and melting potatoes.
But the real star of the house is thehot goat’s cheese starter. The cheese used is produced on the premises – it couldn’t be fresher or more local! If you come at the right time, you can even meet the goats that roam freely in the pastures before returning to the inn at the end of the day.
4. The Steinwasen: panoramic view of the Munster valley
To find the Steinwasen farmhouse inn, you’ll have to take a stony path off the Route des Crêtes. The best way to get there is on foot, after a nice hike in the surrounding mountain pastures, which will give you the appetite you need to devour the generous specialities served.
In a warm and authentic setting, the Matter family welcomes you all summer long to their farmhouse inn with its breathtaking view over the Munster valley. On the menu: full marcaire meal, country omelette with smoked bacon, plate of home-made charcuterie, Munster cheese and Bargkass from the farm, creamy Siaskass… Enough to fill your stomach and fill your head with gourmet memories!
Fancy something a little more unusual? Book your night in the farm’s accommodation: a traditional gypsy caravan that majestically overlooks the valley. Wake up peacefully in this exceptional setting, taking the time to breathe in the pure mountain air and admire the sunrise over the peaks. To complete this unique experience, you’ll be served a hearty breakfast made from farm produce: home-made bread, homemade jams, fromage blanc, smoked charcuterie… If you’re lucky, you’ll be able to enjoy it in the sun on the panoramic terrace, watching the cows graze peacefully in the surrounding meadows.
From the Steinwasen, you can also explore the magnificent hiking trails that criss-cross the Vosges ridges and offer spectacular views over the Alsace plain. Don’t hesitate to ask the Matter family for advice, and they’ll be happy to show you the most beautiful routes to suit your level and interests.
Practical tips for enjoying Alsace’s farmhouse inns
To make the most of your farmhouse experience, here are a few essential recommendations. Most farm inns are only open during the summer season, generally from May to September, when the herds are on the mountain pastures. However, some establishments, such as the Auberge du Schantzwasen, remain open in winter to welcome skiers and snowshoe trekkers.
You are strongly advised to book in advance, especially for the more intimate farmhouse inns such as Schupferen, where the number of places is limited. Weekends and public holidays are particularly popular. Bring good walking shoes if you wish to access the farms on foot, and don’t forget that mountain weather can change rapidly: always take a jacket and something to protect yourself from the rain.
In terms of budget, expect to pay between €20 and €35 per person for a full farmhouse meal, which is still very reasonable given the generous portions and the quality of the farm produce. Most farmhouse inns accept payment in cash or by credit card, but it’s best to check at the time of booking.
In conclusion, Alsace’s farmhouse inns are much more than just a gastronomic stop-off point during your stay in Alsace. They embody a way of life, a philosophy where time seems to stand still, where a warm welcome is combined with the authenticity of local produce. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker, a lover of good food or simply in search of authenticity, a visit to these establishments perched high in the Vosges mountains will leave a lasting impression. Don’t hesitate to visit Colmar in addition to your visit to the farmhouse inns for a total immersion in Alsatian culture. With its half-timbered houses, picturesque canals and generous gastronomy, this is an unforgettable experience in the heart of a region that has preserved its traditions while opening up to the world.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to visit the farmhouse inns in Alsace?
The best time to visit is from May to September, when the herds are on the mountain pastures and most of the farm inns are open. Summer offers the best weather conditions for enjoying the panoramic terraces, while autumn unveils shimmering colours and the magical spectacle of the sea of clouds. Some farmhouses remain open in winter for winter sports enthusiasts.
Do farmhouse inns need to be booked in advance?
Yes, booking is highly recommended, especially for weekends, public holidays and during the high tourist season. The best-known farmhouse inns and smaller ones like the Schupferen are often fully booked. Reservations also allow the farms to plan ahead for the necessary quantities of fresh produce.
Can I get to the farmhouse inns by car?
Most of the farm inns are accessible by car via the Route des Crêtes or forest tracks. However, some, such as the Schupferen, are only accessible on foot or by ski/snowshoes in winter. It is advisable to check with each establishment about access conditions before setting off, particularly in the event of bad weather.
What exactly is a marcaire meal?
The “repas marcaire” is the traditional menu served in the farmhouse inns of Alsace. It generally consists of a soup or pie as a starter, Rogabrageldi (stewed potatoes) with smoked neck of pork as the main course, a platter of farmhouse cheeses (Munster, Bargkass, Tomme des Vosges) and a dessert such as Siaskass or a fruit tart. It’s a hearty menu that reflects the culinary traditions of the Marcaires.
Are farmhouse inns suitable for families with children?
Absolutely! Farmhouse inns are perfect places for families. Children love discovering farm animals (cows, goats, chickens…), the mountain environment and the great outdoors. Many farms offer menus suitable for younger children, and some have outdoor play areas. The reindeer farm near Schantzwasen is a particular favourite with children.
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