Discover the ancestral martial art of Sumo in Japan: history, tournament and training
Sumo has embodied the soul of Japan for over 1500 years. Much more than a simple wrestling sport, this ancient martial art is deeply rooted in Shinto traditions and Japanese culture. Between sacred rituals and demonstrations of brute strength, sumo fascinates by its complexity and authenticity. Whether you’re a martial arts enthusiast, a lover of Japanese culture or simply curious, discovering the world of sumo during a trip to the Land of the Rising Sun is an unforgettable and deeply enriching experience.
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The Shinto origins and age-old history of sumo
Sumo has its roots in Japan’s oldest Shinto rituals. As far back as the Kofun period (3rd-7th century), figurines of wrestlers attest to the existence of this practice. According to the legend recounted in the Kojiki, the oldest Japanese text dating from 712, sumo was born of a mythological battle between the gods Takemikazuchi and Takeminakata, the outcome of which determined the possession of the Japanese islands. This religious dimension has never left sumo, which was originally practised at shrine festivals to entertain the deities and ensure good harvests.
Over the centuries, sumo has evolved from a simple ritual dance into a truly codified combat sport. During the Nara period (710-794), the first official tournaments were organised at the imperial court, marking the transformation of sumo into a spectacle. During the Edo period (1603-1868), sumo took on its modern form with the establishment of the first hierarchical ranks and the appearance of professional stables known as “heya”. Today, sumo remains Japan’s national sport, revered as a living cultural treasure that perpetuates age-old traditions in contemporary Japan.
The basic rules and techniques of sumo wrestling
Sumo wrestling is distinguished by the apparent simplicity of its rules. Two wrestlers face each other in a sacred circle called a “dohyō”, 4.55 metres in diameter. The objective is clear: force the opponent to leave the circle or make him touch the ground with a part of his body other than the soles of his feet. Despite this simplicity, sumo has more than 82 official techniques, from belt grabs to spectacular throws, dodges and powerful thrusts. Each rikishi wears only one “mawashi”, a thick silk belt that is the only piece of clothing allowed and whose strategic grip can determine the outcome of the fight.
The rules prohibit closed punches, kicks, chokes and hair holds. On the other hand, open slaps, throws and belt holds are perfectly permitted. Before each bout, the wrestlers perform the ‘shikiri’, a preparatory ritual lasting up to four minutes in the higher divisions. During this time, the fighters face each other, alternately raising their legs to chase away evil spirits in a movement called ‘shiko’, throwing salt to purify the ring and gazing intensely at each other. This fascinating choreography is an integral part of the show and testifies to the profound spiritual dimension of sumo.
The sacred rituals surrounding each fight
Sumo is inseparable from its thousand-year-old Shinto rituals. Even before the bouts begin, the dohyō is the subject of a consecration ceremony conducted by a Shinto priest. Salt is sprinkled over the ring to purify it, a gesture that the wrestlers repeat before each bout. This practice has its origins in the belief that salt repels evil spirits and protects fighters from injury. During a tournament, several dozen kilos of salt are used every day, transforming the ring into a sacred space.
The most spectacular ritual remains the ‘dohyō-iri’, the ceremonial entrance of the champions of the supreme division. Dressed in richly embroidered aprons known as ‘kesho-mawashi’, the yokozuna and high-ranking wrestlers enter the arena according to a precise choreography, accompanied by their assistants. The yokozuna, the highest rank in sumo, performs a solemn ritual dance in which he stamps his feet on the ground to chase away demons, stretches out his arms to show that he is unarmed and performs symbolic movements charged with religious significance. These ceremonies transform each day of the tournament into a cultural spectacle where sport and spirituality blend harmoniously.
Attend a sumo tournament in Japan
Six major official tournaments, known as “honbasho”, punctuate the professional sumo year. Each lasts fifteen consecutive days and brings together all the wrestlers in the professional divisions. Visiting Tokyo offers three opportunities to attend these events: the Hatsu Basho in January (New Year’s tournament), the Natsu Basho in May (spring tournament) and the Aki Basho in September (autumn tournament). The other three tournaments take place in Osaka in March, Nagoya in July and Fukuoka in November, giving sumo fans the chance to discover sumo in all four corners of the archipelago.
Download the audio tour to discover Tokyo on foot and on your own
To make the most of your stay in Japan’s capital, the Navaway audio tour allows you to discover Tokyo’s must-sees on your own. This carefully designed itinerary guides you through the city’s emblematic districts, from the Senso-ji temple in Asakusa to the Imperial Gardens and the skyscrapers of Shinjuku. You’ll be able to plan your visit to the Ryogoku district, the birthplace of sumo, with complete peace of mind.
The tournaments take place at the Ryogoku Kokugikan (1-3-28 Yokoami, Sumida, Tokyo 130-0015, rated 4.5/5 on Google for over 14,000 reviews), the national sumo arena which can hold up to 11,000 spectators. The gates open at 8.45am, allowing early birds to watch the fights in the lower divisions. The atmosphere gradually builds up until the Makuuchi division champions clash, which starts at around 3.30pm. Ticket prices vary considerably depending on where you sit, from 3,500 yen (around €23) for the furthest seats to over 40,000 yen (around €260) for the ‘tamari’ seats, the cushions flush with the ring where you can almost touch the wrestlers.
Visit a sumo stable and watch a morning training session
For an authentic experience of the world of sumo, nothing beats a visit to a ‘heya’, the stables where the wrestlers live and train. Tokyo’s Ryogoku district is home to around fifteen of these establishments. Morning training, known as “asa-geiko”, starts very early, usually between 6 and 8 am. In an intense, concentrated atmosphere, the rikishi perform a series of strengthening exercises, technical rehearsals and sparring bouts under the watchful eye of their elders and their master, the oyakata.
Some stables accept visitors, but according to strict rules that must be scrupulously respected. It is usually necessary to book in advance, often through specialist agencies or your hotel. Absolute silence is the rule during training, photography is often prohibited or restricted, and visitors must arrive before the session begins. Establishments such as the Arashio Stable or the Takasago Stable offer guided tours in English to give a better understanding of the rigorous daily lives of these exceptional athletes. When exploring Tokyo with the Navaway audio guide, be sure to include the Ryogoku district in your itinerary to discover this sumo temple.
The sumo museum and Ryogoku’s landmarks
The Sumo Museum (1-3-28 Yokoami, Sumida, Tokyo 130-0015, rated 4.3/5 on Google for over 1,500 reviews), located within the Ryogoku Kokugikan, is a must-see for fans. Admission is free outside tournament periods, but during competitions only ticketed spectators are admitted. The museum features rotating exhibitions of antique prints, portraits of legendary champions, historic mawashi and sumptuous kesho-mawashi. The collections trace the development of sumo over the centuries and pay tribute to the greatest figures in this martial art. Opening times are 10am to 4.30pm in normal season, and 12.30pm to 4pm on tournament days.
The Ryogoku district itself exudes sumo at every corner. As you stroll through its narrow streets, you may come across rikishi in yukata on their way to the public baths or doing their shopping. The many restaurants serving ‘chanko-nabe’, the nutritious stew that forms the staple diet of wrestlers, are a great place to try this hearty and tasty speciality. The Eko-in temple, one of the first places to host open-air sumo wrestling, is also worth a visit for its historical importance. As you continue your Navaway-guided discovery of Tokyo, you’ll find it easy to link this traditional district with the capital’s other iconic sites.
Daily life and the strict hierarchy of the rikishi
The life of a sumo wrestler is governed by iron discipline and an inflexible hierarchy. From the moment they join a heya, usually as teenagers, young recruits discover a world where seniority and rank determine every aspect of life. Novices must rise before dawn to prepare the dojo, assist their elders, cook, clean and carry out all domestic chores. They can only train after the higher-ranking wrestlers and are the last to eat. This pyramid structure builds character and teaches the values of humility, perseverance and respect that are the pillars of sumo.
The rank system in professional sumo has six main divisions, from Jonokuchi (the lowest) to Makuuchi (the highest). Within the Makuuchi, five honorary titles reward the best: komusubi, sekiwake, ozeki and the two yokozuna, great champions who embody the highest moral and technical values of sumo. Becoming a yokozuna is the culmination of a lifetime of sacrifice, because the title is not just a sporting achievement but also a moral one. A yokozuna must demonstrate exemplary conduct and irreproachable dignity, both in and out of the ring. Unlike other ranks, a yokozuna can never be demoted: he must retire if he is no longer capable of maintaining the required level of excellence.
The diet and training of sumo wrestlers
The imposing stature of the rikishi is the result of a specific diet and intensive training. The mainstay of their diet is chanko-nabe, a hearty stew made with broth, vegetables, tofu and a variety of meats or fish. Contrary to popular belief, this dish is relatively balanced and nutritious. It’s the quantity eaten and the rhythm of meals that encourages weight gain: wrestlers eat only one or two meals a day, after training, and systematically take a nap after eating, which encourages the storage of calories. A professional rikishi can consume between 7,000 and 10,000 calories a day, four to five times more than the average adult.
Daily training combines traditional exercises with modern physical preparation. Sessions begin with shiko, the characteristic leg lifts that develop flexibility, balance and thigh strength. This is followed by matawari, extreme stretching exercises in which the wrestler spreads his legs as wide as possible, and teppo, repeated strikes against a wooden post to strengthen the arms and upper body. The butsukari-geiko, exercises in which one wrestler pushes his partner across the dojo, develop explosive power. Finally, sparring sessions are used to refine techniques and strategy. This daily rigour, maintained throughout their career, produces athletes with remarkable power and agility despite their imposing build.
Legendary sumo champions
The history of sumo has been marked by exceptional champions whose exploits continue to inspire today’s generations. Futabayama Sadaji, yokozuna in the 1930s, still holds the all-time record of 69 consecutive victories, a feat unmatched since 1939. Taiho Koki, yokozuna in the 1960s, won 32 tournaments and is considered by many to be the greatest wrestler of all time. More recently, Hakuho Sho, a Mongolian yokozuna who retired in 2021, smashed all records with 45 tournament victories and over 1,000 fights won in the Makuuchi division, writing his name into sumo legend.
The opening up of sumo to foreign wrestlers in the 1990s profoundly changed the landscape of this traditionally Japanese sport. Yokozuna from Mongolia, Hawaii and Bulgaria shone at the highest level, sparking debate in Japanese society about the cultural identity of sumo. Despite the controversies, these international champions have brought a new dynamism to the discipline and contributed to its popularisation throughout the world. Their extraordinary careers bear witness to the universal nature of determination and sporting excellence, values that have been at the heart of sumo since its origins.
Practical tips for attending a sumo wrestling match
To attend a major tournament, tickets must be booked several weeks in advance, as the best seats sell out quickly. The Japan Sumo Federation’s official website offers an English-language ticketing service, Ticket Oosumo, which makes booking much easier for foreign visitors. Specialised travel agencies and some hotels can also take care of the arrangements. For the undecided or last-minute visitors, a few tickets are generally available for sale on the day at the Kokugikan box office, but you will have to queue as soon as the doors open.
There is no strict dress code for attending fights, and you can dress casually. However, for the ‘tamari’ seats closest to the ring, the rules are stricter: certain sharp objects or bulky accessories are banned for safety reasons, as wrestlers are sometimes thrown out of the ring with violence. Plan to arrive early to enjoy the rising atmosphere and the fights in the lower divisions, which are often spectacular. The Kokugikan has restaurants and stalls serving bento and local specialities. Don’t forget to leave some time after the tournaments to explore the Ryogoku district and perhaps sample some authentic chanko-nabe. Thanks to the Navaway itinerary for visiting Tokyo, you can easily incorporate this unique experience into your discovery of the Japanese capital.
In conclusion, discovering the ancient martial art of sumo in Japan is much more than just a sporting experience. It’s a deep immersion in the traditions, rituals and values that have shaped Japanese culture over the centuries. Whether you’re watching a major tournament in the electric atmosphere of the Ryogoku Kokugikan, observing rigorous morning training in a heya or exploring the sumo museum, every moment brings you closer to this fascinating world of Shinto spirituality, athletic prowess and strict codes of honour. Sumo embodies the very essence of traditional Japan, while continuing to evolve and enthrall crowds in the modern world. On your next trip to the Land of the Rising Sun, let Navaway be your guide to Tokyo and don’t miss the unique opportunity to witness this age-old spectacle that will leave a lasting impression on you.
FAQ
1. Can I attend a sumo training session in Tokyo for free?
Some sumo stables accept visitors to watch the morning training sessions free of charge, but you must book in advance and observe strict rules (silence, arriving before the session starts, no photography). Guided tours organised by specialist agencies, although not free (around 80-120 euros), offer a more comfortable experience with explanations in English.
2. When is the best time to watch sumo in Japan?
The six major tournaments take place in January, March, May, July, September and November. In Tokyo, you can attend the January, May and September tournaments. It is advisable to book your tickets two or three months in advance to get good seats, especially for the final days of the tournament when the sporting stakes are at their highest.
3. How long does a sumo wrestling match last?
Paradoxically, while the preparatory rituals can last up to four minutes, the fight itself usually lasts just a few seconds, rarely more than a minute. It is this explosive brevity after a long period of tension that gives sumo its charm and intensity. A full day’s tournament lasts around six hours, from 8.45am to 6pm, with several dozen successive bouts.
4. Can women play professional sumo?
No, Japanese professional sumo remains exclusively male due to Shinto traditions that consider women impure during certain periods. Women are not even allowed on the dohyō, including for official ceremonies. However, women’s amateur sumo exists and is developing, with international competitions, but it does not enjoy the same recognition or professional structure as men’s sumo.
5. How much does a professional sumo wrestler earn?
Income varies considerably according to rank. Wrestlers in the lower divisions receive only a modest monthly allowance (around €1,000), while a yokozuna can earn more than €250,000 a year in basic salary, not counting bonuses for tournament victories, advertising revenue and media appearances, which can multiply these sums by two or three. Most rikishi, however, live in their own stables and receive free board and lodging.
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